Sunday, April 22, 2012

A BBQ Review: Stiles Switch BBQ and Brew

Austin, Texas - April 18, 2012

BBQ - I can't think of any greater way to celebrate your birthday.  So, for my 28th, I decided to hit up Stiles Switch BBQ and Brew for some delicious smoked grub.  Stiles Switch is Austin's latest BBQ joint, and it has received a number of positive reviews from such sources as Full Custom Gospel BBQ.  Pitmaster Lance Kirkpatrick was once Bobby Mueller's "right hand man" at Louie Mueller Barbecue in Taylor, Texas, so I was naturally quite excited to try out the brisket and beef ribs at Stiles Switch.

My friends Jeff, Dominik, Atanas, and I showed up rather late at Stiles Switch, 7 PM on a Wednesday night.  Nonetheless, the smell of smoke greeted us as we entered the joint, and I was excited to get my 'que on.  Luckily for us, there wasn't a line to speak of - a pleasant alternative to the likes of Franklin BBQ.  I went straight for the heart and ordered a half pound of fatty brisket, a beef rib, and half a jalapeno and chedder sausage link.


The fatty brisket I ordered had a lovely smoke ring and a nice if not somewhat shallow bark.  There were hints of smoke and pepper in every bite.  However, the connective tissues were not quite fully broken down in a few places on my cut of brisket.  Furthermore, some of the bark was hard and overcooked.  I was not expecting the best cut of brisket as it was so late, but these two flaws were a bit disappointing.  I hope to go back at an earlier time of day to see if I get a more consistently and thoroughly cooked cut of brisket.


The beef rib I ordered had a ton of meat on it, and it had a delightful crust and smoke ring.  It really reminded me of the beef ribs at Louie Mueller, though a bit smaller than their massive ribs.  The meat was savory and full of flavor, but as with the brisket, I found that some of the bark was hard.  Again, I need to hit up Stiles Switch earlier in the day.  Overall, the beef rib was quite delicious and a more satisfying offering than the brisket.


Last up was the sausage.  I found the sausage to be a great offering, and the jalapeno gave the sausage a great kick.  Lots of smoke and lots of flavor.

Overall, I was pleased with the barbecue at Stiles Switch, though I really would like to give the brisket a second chance.  This joint is located only a couple of miles down the road from me, and I would love to have a reliable source of smoked brisket nearby.  In any event, the beef ribs and sausage were well above average, and the brisket, with some work, could reach that level as well.

Rating: 3.75 / 5.0 (with potential for a 4.0 / 5.0 with a more consistent brisket)

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