There are few things that are as Texan as BBQ. With this in mind, I recently set a goal to hit up the Top 50 BBQ joints as listed by Texas Monthly magazine. Now, the last list was published in 2008, so I have decided I should really attempt to visit the Top 50 BBQ joints that will be showcased in the future 2013 list (a number of quality BBQ places have arisen in the last 3-4 years, and a few other BBQ places have degraded in value). Such an attempt necessarily requires some foresight and guesswork, but fortunately, the head of the Top 50 BBQ search committee runs his own blog and ranking system at Full Custom Gospel Barbecue.
Even though I grew up with the legendary Dinosaur Bar-B-Que in Syracuse, I have learned a fair amount about BBQ since I moved to Texas in 2006. Primarily, I have learned that brisket is the prima donna of BBQ. Some Carolinans may argue that beef isn't "real BBQ", but I contend BBQ isn't about the selection of meat but rather the process of smoking of meat. Brisket embraces this notion. Brisket is one of the toughest and leatheriest cuts on a cow and consequently one of the most difficult cuts to cook. Brisket requires 18-24 hours at a relatively low temperature over a smoker to successfully maintain moistness while breaking down and rendering the connective and fatty tissues of the cut. The low temperature additionally brings out the flavor of the meat, and the smoke enhances the flavor. Additionally, the smoke contributes to the delicious burnt crust of the brisket (the so-called bark) and the distinctive pink smoke ring around the outer layers of the cut. The final ingredient is a good spice rub, and most places use a simple salt/pepper mixture. If a pit-master manages to get the process just right, the resulting brisket can be tender as a steak with an incredible flavor combining beefy and smoky sensibilities. If one part of the process goes awry or the pit-master gets lazy (tries to smoke the brisket for less time over a higher temperature), the resulting brisket can be left dry and tough. A given brisket has two ends, a lean end and a fatty end. The fatty end has the most fat and frankly the most flavor. I have learned to always choose the fatty end when eating BBQ (you only live once).
As brisket may be considered the primary staple of Texas BBQ, I have decided to rank the BBQ joints primarily by the quality of their brisket. I will also rank joints partially by the quality of their pork ribs, and if a certain joint has a certain specialty item such as jalapeno cheddar sausage or beef ribs, I will additionally take this into consideration. Finally, BBQ sauce should not enter any ranking system. BBQ sauce does have the capacity to enhance the flavor of meat, but it also has the capacity to cover up for a bad smoking job. BBQ should be about the meat, not the sauce. For reference, I have included rankings for some classic Austin locations.
The County Line: 2.5 / 5.0
Ironworks: 1.5 / 5.0
Rudy's BBQ: 2.5 to 3.0 (depending on the location) / 5.0
Salt Lick BBQ: 3.0 / 5.0 (3.5 / 5.0 for the Sunday beef ribs)
Now, without further adieu, here are the BBQ joints I have visited since I began my adventures on January 28.
Franklin BBQ
Austin, Texas - January 28, 2012
Franklin BBQ is where my whole BBQ journey started. Before Franklin, my Texas BBQ experience was largely limited to the chains such as Rudy's and the County Line. For a special event, I might have traveled all the way to Dripping Springs for some Salt Lick BBQ. However, my BBQ knowledge was oh-so-limited, and I had no idea how much potential BBQ had to offer.
Now frankly (no pun intended), I had heard many things about Franklin BBQ before I finally visited the joint. "Brisket as tender as Kobe beef." "Get there before 10 AM or you won't even be able to sniff the brisket." "Espresso BBQ sauce (which, unfortunately for me, contains gluten)." So, when I got the invite to visit Franklin with my old co-worker Austin and his wife Ayiesha, I jumped at the opportunity.
We got to Franklin at about 9:45 AM, and there were already ~100 people in front of us in line. So the rumors were true. It was a bit of a chilly morning, so we were in for a long and painful wait. Around 10:15 AM, one of Franklin's employees starting asking people in line what they planned on ordering, and when he got to the end of the line, he had to inform the people there that they would most likely be out of food by the time they got to the counter. Seriously. And this was only 10:30 AM. Anyways, 11 AM finally came around, and the line started moving slowly. And by slowly, I mean really slowly - we finally got to the counter around 12:15 AM. However, during this time, I got to catch up with Austin and Ayiesha, who I only see 2-3 times per year. Many people around us had brought lawn chairs and coolers of beer. I will have to remember that for next time - oh, and there will definitely be a next time.
At the counter, we were encountered by Aaron Franklin himself. He was personally cutting all of the meat, and he made sure to have a short conversation with every person who was visiting. Talk about customer service. "Lean or fatty brisket?" I had checked out enough Yelp reviews that the correct answer was fatty. Of course now I know that this is the correct choice regardless of BBQ joint. And then Aaron starting slicing into the most beautiful brisket I ever saw. Juices literally leaked out the slices as Aaron cut them. Incredible. I also grabbed some pork ribs and pulled pork for some added measure, and I purchased a Mexican Coke to wash it all down.
The fatty brisket was a revelation. A religious experience of sorts. The brisket was tender as could be really just melts in your mouth. The bark was delightfully smoky, crunchy, and peppery. The pork ribs were also very good. The meat fell right off the bone, and the ribs were enhanced by an aggressive salt and pepper rub. In fact, I have honestly learned since my visit to Franklin and a number of other places on this list that the right aggressive rub is imperative to a good pork rib. Finally, the pulled pork was a fun nod to all things Carolina. Slightly smoky, and delicious with Aaron Franklin's homemade sweet BBQ sauce. All in all, a wonderful experience.
Rating: 5.0 / 5.0
Cooper's Old Time Pit Bar-B-Que
Llano, Texas - February 11, 2012
Cooper's Old Time Pit Bar-B-Que has always been a place of legend among my circle of friends. Any time one of them is remotely near Llano, they make sure to detour for lunch. So when my friends Andrew, Dave, Zohaib, and I traveled to Enchanted Rock in Fredericksburg this past February, we made it a point to also head to Cooper's. At Cooper's, you order your meat right off an outdoor pit. The pit-master additionally asks if you would like your meat dipped in some BBQ sauce. At the time I said yes, but looking back I should have said no in favor of using some side sauce. I ordered some fatty brisket, pork ribs, and sausage with a side of potato of salad.
The brisket was sliced much thicker than most places, which is a welcome change. The slices of brisket were well-cooked and quite juicy with a deep layer of fat, but the slices had a rather shallow smoke ring and their taste had only vague notes of smoke. The brisket slices also had a relatively thin crust that, in my opinion, was over-salty. I can imagine that some people would really embrace the salty overtones. The pork ribs were pretty decent, but they had only minimal seasoning and consequently lacked a real blast of flavor. The ribs also had a fair amount of bite to them, a quality I tend to enjoy. The sausage was not anything out of this world, but it still had great flavor and snap. All of the meats were covered in Cooper's marquee sauce, a thin vinegar-based sauce that some of my friends rave about. In my opinion, the sauce was alright, but I would not go out of my way to pick up a bottle of the stuff. Finally, the potato salad was good, but I find it pretty hard to screw up potato salad. And besides, sides aren't BBQ. All in all, Cooper's was good quality Texas 'que, but it wasn't the game changer that Franklin was.
Rating: 4.0 / 5.0
Smitty's Market
Lockhart, Texas - March 3, 2012
On March 3, my friend Zohaib and I decided to visit Lockhart, Texas, the self-proclaimed capital of Texas barbecue. We were going to try to hit up the three famous joints in town,
Smitty's Market,
Kreuz Market, and
Black's Barbecue, but we ended up hitting only Smitty's and Kreuz (we were quite incapacitated due to large quantities of ingested meat). Now, the histories of Smitty's and Kreuz are fascinatingly intertwined. In fact, in the beginning, there was only one king of BBQ in Lockhart, and that king was Kreuz Market, located where Smitty's now stands. Ownership of Kreuz passed from founder Charles Kreuz to his sons once he passed away, and his sons then sold the BBQ joint to the Schmidt family in 1946. Finally, in 1999, Schmidt brothers Rick and Don parted ways, with Don staying on at the original location and Rick moving 1/2 mile down the road. Don changed the name of the original location to Smitty's Market, and Rick named his new location after the original Kreuz Market.
Zohaib and I decided to first hit up Smitty's Market. Smitty's Market has all the personality of a small-town joint. After entering the front door, you could see and smell the history of the place. Black soot from generations of BBQ smoking covered the walls. The same smokers that were used a century ago were still in place, with patented oak burning as we waited in line.
When we finally got to the counter, I decided to get some fatty brisket, some pork ribs, and a sausage link. We were given the meats in butcher paper and a plastic knife. We were not given forks nor BBQ sauce, and in fact, it is common knowledge that is rude to ask for such items (though Smitty's will provide them if asked).
The brisket slices we were given were moist and well-cooked, and the fat was well-tendered. The bark was delicious and well-seasoned, and the brisket, like Franklin, melted in my mouth. There were noted hints of smoke, but not as much as compared to Franklin. I would argue the brisket was the second best I had had up to that point - a bit behind Franklin. From what I understand, consistency is a bit of an issue at Smitty's, and on any given day you may be given a piece of undercooked brisket with fatty portions that need to be tenderized. Thankfully, I did not visit Smitty's on such a day. The pork ribs were delightful, tender, and plump with flavor, almost on the same level as Franklin. The sausage was pretty good, but I have had plenty of better sausage in my time. However, I am on the opinion that sausage does not make or break a place. All in all, I had some great 'que at Smitty's.
Rating: 4.5 / 5.0
Kreuz Market
Lockhart, Texas - March 3, 2012
Zohaib and I hit Kreuz right after Smitty's. Now, looking back, this was not the greatest idea, as Smitty's would already have the edge over Kreuz as hunger always enhances taste. Additionally, by the time we got to Kreuz, it was mid-afternoon, and one lesson I have learned over the last few months is you do not go to a BBQ place mid-afternoon. You get the worst cuts of meat.
Now, as much as Smitty's was a small-town joint, Kreuz was a conglomerate. It literally looms over (actually, under) you as you drive past it. The parking lot is always dense with cars, and the building that houses Kreuz Market is enormous. Qualities like these usually leave a bad taste in my mouth - you are always concerned that the restaurant you are about to enter only prepares food for mass consumption. Then we entered the BBQ joint and saw the following sign:
Alright, so Kreuz Market was dedicated to authentic BBQ after all. So, with a bit of tenseness relieved, Zohaib and I ordered some brisket, pork ribs, and a link of sausage.
When the pit-master asked for my order, I specially asked for a slice of fatty brisket. I wanted to get the juiciest piece of meat possible. However, what I got was the driest, toughest piece of brisket I have tasted ever since I started my BBQ tour. Sure, it tasted of smoke and had a great smoke ring, but everything about the brisket screamed for sauce. It was so dry that I couldn't even finish it. The ribs were nearly the same way, but they at least had good taste that elevated them above the likes of Rudy's and the Salt Lick. Something tells me that Zohaib and I had just gone to Kreuz on the wrong day at the wrong time, and I plan in to go back in the future for a second evaluation. After all, Kreuz is considered one of the top five BBQ joints in all of Texas. Now, for all the disappointment the brisket and ribs brought, the jalapeno cheddar sausage brought pleasure. This was the best sausage I had ever tasted up to that point. This saving grace kept Kreuz within reaching distance of the other BBQ greats I had visited. All in all, Zohaib and I left knowing that Smitty's was the clear winner of the day. And then we drove back and Zohaib slept, dreaming and digesting.
After visiting other BBQ blogs and Yelp, I have learned that the two things to really order at Kreuz are the pork chop and beef clod. I will keep this in mind next time I go for a re-evaluation. Maybe I can hit up Black's at the same time.
Rating: 3.5 / 5.0
Luling City Market
Luling, Texas - March 17, 2012
On March 17, my friends Andrew and Zack and I ventured south of Lockhart, Texas to hit up
Luling City Market. City Market is often overlooked in favor of the big three in Lockhart, but it is still considered one of the top places in all of Texas and many argue that it provides better 'que than either Smitty's, Kreuz, or Black's. After my positive experience at Smitty's, I was quite excited for the trip out to Luling.
The trip down to Luling City Market was a small adventure, having to wait for trains at a couple of stops. I always enjoy the hill country view one gets when driving out of Austin. The atmosphere at Luling City Market was not too unlike that of Smitty's, small-town and all. The smokers are located within a separate room within the joint, and we waited about 30 minutes to get to the meat counter.
At the counter, we were informed that the joint was unfortunately already out of hot sausage links. Once again, this was a consequence of arriving mid-afternoon. After this latest mishap, I have decided to always hit BBQ joints early in the future. To compensate for the lack of sausage, we ordered a couple pounds of brisket (half fatty and half lean) and about a pound and a half of pork ribs. I found the fatty brisket was a mixed bag. My first few bites were legendary - tender with lots of taste and smoke. Delightful bark with lots of smoke and pepper. However, I had quite a few bites that were very tough and dry. I imagine that part of the brisket was smoked too close to the fire, drying it out completely. I imagine that if we had received cuts from another brisket piece, we might have had a more consistent brisket experience. The ribs were chewy (which I honestly prefer) with quite a bit of flavor and smoke. They were roughly on the same level as Smitty's. All in all, a good experience, but I would like to go back to see if I get a more consistent slice of brisket as well as to try some sausage.
Rating: 4.0 / 5.0
Snow's BBQ
Lexington, Texas - March 24, 2012
In 2008,
Snow's BBQ was selected as the top BBQ joint in all of Texas by Texas Monthly magazine. Needless to say, I had to visit. Snow's is a bit of pain to get to, and it requires careful planning. It is only open on Saturday mornings starting at 8 AM, and it closes once it sells out. Sometimes this is as late as 1 PM, but sometimes this is as early as 9:30 AM. It really depends on the season. So, with this in mind, my friend Chris and I took off from Austin one Saturday morning at 7:45 AM. It was a long journey through the wooded highway, and we finally rolled into the Snow's BBQ parking lot around 9:05 AM. We were welcomed with a relatively short line. Now, Snow's BBQ is a small joint. And by small, I mean really small. The building itself contains only three or four tables, and there are an additional three or four tables outside by the smoker. Inside, the building is covered with photos of sponsored Little League teams and the like. This place had serious small-town Grandma-and-Grandpa personality, and Chris and I were digging it. In fact, the pit-master at Snow's BBQ is senior citizen Miss Tootsie Tomanetz, a retired janitor and BBQ veteran with several decades of experience.
At the counter, we were met by owner Kerry Bexley, an ex-Rodeo Clown. He cut us some thin slices of fatty brisket, and the juices poured out over the electronic knife. I asked for some of the burnt ends as well, and he smiled and gave some to me for free. When I asked for a half pound of pork ribs, he offered me some of the end pieces. He said they tasted more like jerky, but he had a sense I would enjoy them. Well, he was right. I finished my order with half of a chicken, a link of sausage (not made in house but rather down the street at
City Meat Market in Giddings, Texas), and a coke. Overall a hearty breakfast.
As I took a first bite into the fatty brisket, I reached BBQ nirvana. Snow's brisket slices were as savory as Franklin's brisket slices were gourmet. While Franklin's brisket slices were characterized by incredible tenderness, Snow's brisket slices were loaded with even more favor, as hard as that it is to believe. The smoke rings on the brisket slices were incredible, and every bite brought out that smoky flavor. The bark and burnt ends were delightfully crunchy, smoky, and peppery. The pork ribs were quite chewy (not really fall-off-the-bone), but they were filled with wonderful pork flavor coupled with an absolutely sinful rub. The end pieces did indeed have many similarities to jerky, but were packed with insane flavor. The sausage tasted strongly of smoke but honestly could have used some jalapeno or cheddar kick - a couple notches below the level of Kreuz Market's sausage. Nevertheless, I took the leftover sausage home and used it for breakfast tacos for the next week. The chicken was surprisingly good, filled with flavor and very tender. BBQ poultry is a new experience for me, and this particular experience was a good one. I only finished a quarter of the chicken and used the rest in a chicken enchilada recipe at home later in the week. All in all, Snow's BBQ was a true Texas experience, and I found the brisket and pork ribs to be among the best I have ever had (right there with Franklin).
5.0 / 5.0
JMuller BBQ
Austin, Texas - April 4, 2012
John Mueller, of the famous Mueller family, first entered the Austin BBQ scene in 2001. He was immediately met with much success and made the Top 50 list back in 2003. However, in 2005, he left the BBQ world altogether without much explanation. Finally, he decided to come back to the BBQ world in 2010, and he opened up his trailer on South First four days before my dissertation defense (that is, November 7, 2011). Texas Monthly magazine ran an article on John Mueller upon the eve of his return, especially in light of the fact that Aaron Franklin (of Franklin BBQ) was once an employee of John Mueller. Nonetheless, neither John Mueller nor Aaron Franklin has said a bad word about the other, and there seems to be no deep-seated rivalry between them at the moment. My friend Andrew and I decided to hit John Mueller's trailer on a Thursday morning for some early lunch, hoping to beat the lunch crowd. It ended up being a good idea, as only two people were in line when we arrived and nearly two dozen were in line when we left.
At the counter, I ordered a half pound of fatty brisket, three pork ribs, and two beef ribs. The fatty brisket had plenty of moisture (mostly provided by the fat cap itself), and it was coupled with a strong pepper rub. However, the meat itself did not have the same amount of flavor as say Snow's (the smoke did not seem to penetrate the outer layers of the brisket). Some parts of the brisket were also too chewy as the fatty tissue was not completely rendered. The pork ribs were somewhat chewy and harbored some good flavor, though I honestly think they could have done with more rub. I am starting to think I am in the minority when I say I prefer highly seasoned pork ribs. Up last were the beef ribs. Now, beef ribs are known as a Mueller specialty, so I was quite excited to try them at John's trailer. They were indeed very well-cooked and tender, with plenty of smoke and flavor. However, that day, I felt that the beef ribs also had an off-putting metallic aftertaste. I am not entirely sure where that came from, but from reading other reviews, it does not seem to be a common complaint. I am curious if something went wrong in the smoking process with the beef ribs and an excess of aluminum foil was used at some point for whatever reason (why, I do not know). Anyways, the BBQ at John Mueller's trailer was quite legit and a pleasant alternative to the long wait at Franklin BBQ.
Rating: 4.25 / 5.0
Opie's BBQ
Spicewood, Texas - April 7, 2012
Last weekend, I realized that I would be driving through Spicewood on my way to a business retreat in Marble Falls. Looking at the Top 50 list from 2008, I noticed that I would be passing right by one of the prized BBQ joints,
Opie's BBQ.
When I got to the meat counter, I decided to get a selection of fatty brisket and spare pork ribs. I additionally ordered some of Opie's BBQ famed tater tot casserole, though technically the casserole has wheat in it. For whatever reason, I was willing to take the risk on that select day. And it was worth it, oh was it worth it (even if I had to scrape away all of the bread crumbs). If I was to return, I might just get that, though my stomach will surely regret it.
The selection of fatty brisket was one of the most moist and fatty pieces I have ever tasted. In fact, it was so fatty, I felt guilty about eating it. I was sure my cholesterol level was going to reach dangerous levels by the end of the meal. That being said, the fat was relatively well-rendered and tender (though it was a mess as can be seen in the picture above), and the brisket was overall incredibly tasty with an absurdly delicious bark. Seriously, I don't know what they put into their rub, but it was highly addictive. One downside was I could not taste much smoke, though I think the rub may have over-powered that.
Apparently, Opie's is known for their Sweet-n-Spicy Pork Ribs (Opie's has won several awards for their Sweet-n-Spicy Pork Ribs), but they technically have gluten. I hence decided to only get a couple of spare pork ribs. The ribs were quite well-cooked and tender, but while the brisket was booming with flavor, the ribs were honestly quite boring. No real noticeable smoke undertones at all. Too bad really. All in all, Opie's was a fun unexpected pleasure, but it doesn't quite reach the ranks of the big boys.
Rating: 4.0 / 5.0
Louie Mueller Barbecue
Taylor, Texas - April 14, 2012
Louie Mueller Barbecue was the last of the Top 5 BBQ joints I went to (according to the 2008 Texas Monthly list). I had heard absolutely wonderful things about both their brisket and beef ribs, and after my visit to JMueller BBQ, I was quite excited to make the short trip out to Taylor, Texas.
Like many of its counterparts, Louie Mueller has its pits in-house. This means you will smell like smoke after your meal. Don't fear this fact. Embrace it. I managed to get to Louie Mueller before the lunch crowd (I showed up at 10:05 AM, right after it opened). At the counter, I asked for a beef rib, a couple of pork ribs, and a half pound of fatty brisket. The pit-master looked at me and asked if I was sure I wanted a beef rib all to myself. At first, I was a bit offended by the statement, but then I saw the monstrosity:
Seriously, it was the biggest beef rib I had ever seen. It weighed in at over one and a half pounds, and it had more meat on it than most steaks. Oh, and it was such a beauty. Rarely do you see a beef rib with a substantial smoke ring, and this one had a glorious one. The meat simply looked gorgeous. Finally, there was the crust, the wonderful peppery crust. When I finally sat down, I took a bite into the beef rib and realized this is what heaven feels like. It was such a wonderfully complex combination of flavors (beef, smoke, pepper, etc.), and it was wonderfully tender. It was by far the best beef rib I have ever had, much better than the ribs I had at JMueller. However, I will mention that I saved some of Louie Mueller's enormous rib for later, and when I reheated the rib in aluminum foil in the oven, I noticed a faint metal aftertaste. This makes me really start to think that aluminum foil was the culprit behind the JMueller beef rib awkwardness.
Next up was the brisket. It had a nice smoke ring and the fat was well-tenderized. The crust was crunchy and peppery and had a nice chew to it. It was a generally well-smoked brisket, but it really did not bring anything new to the table like the brisket at either Franklin or Snow's did.
Last up were the pork ribs. I had previously heard good things about the pork ribs at Louie Mueller, but I think they were just off their game when I went. The meat was tough and lacking in flavor. After the beef rib, I was not really disappointed, and I left Louie Mueller with a smile on my face. Good BBQ. Good times.
Rating: 4.5 / 5.0
